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Central Sulawesi is not very well known, but a very interesting place for diving. In the Bay of Tomini, located between the north and east arms of Sulawesi lies a large group of islands - the Togian islands - an isolated area with a beautiful reef habitat, interesting endemic marine species and lots of fish. The islands lie a bit off the beaten track and there seem to be still lots of dive sites waiting to be explored. A visit to the Togians can be combined with diving in Gorontalo (only November to April). Traveling further to the east yet are the Banggai islands, best reached by liveaboard. In the east side of the Bualemo Peninsula, which lies between there are also some interesting dive sites. At the very center of Sulawesi, where several of the arms of the island join together lies the driest place in Indonesia - Palu - and a small but nice dive area in Donggala. The rainy season is between April and July and November to December for the Togians and March to August for the Banggai islands. Sea temperatures are from 29° to 33°. |
What is special about diving around Gorontalo? The walls are spectacular with lots of bends and twists, crannies, small caves and see-throughs. The marine life is rich and varied with several endemic species which are found only here in the Bay of Tomini. Spectacular large sponges and seafans abound and in the upper reaches there are beautiful hard coral fields. To complement there are 2 wrecks in depths suitable for scuba diving and several muck sites. Rantje Allen from Miguel’s Diving knows his dive sites in and out - seems to me like he has a list of all the species living here in his head and knows on which dive site and where exactely to find them. He is also very knowledgeable about the weather in this corner of Sulawesi and plans the dives accordingly. Article in the Asian diver (2006)
The city of Gorontalo lies on a flat plain but is surrounded by steep hills on both sides. The harbour lies at the end of a narrow opening, a crack formed by a geological faultline, where the river reaches the sea. Miguel’s Diving is the only dive operator in the area, they provide a good map of the area. From Gorontalo you can also go by ferry to the Togian islands.
The dive sites are all situated to the west and to the southeast of the city. Here the hills fall steeply into the sea, just a few hundred meters out the ocean is already over a kilometer deep. Most of the dives are on steep slopes and deep walls, the muck diving is done on sandy areas and shallower depths. Visibility is around 20 meters, sometimes up to 30m or down to 10m. You do 2 or 3 dives at the time and Miguel’s Diving has a nice comfortable boat and reaches the dive sites in around 10 to 35 min (west) and 10 to 60 minutes (southeast).
The diving season is from November to April. During the rest of the year this area has some heavy wind and waves. If you are in Gorontalo outside of the main dive season and you want to dive, you just contact Miguel’s Diving and see, if some of the dive sites are ok to dive or not.
To the West of Gorontalo City
1 Biluhu Ring Atoll / 2 Sand Channels / 3 Tri Corner / 4 Tanjung Barat (West
Point) / 5 Sponge Wall / 6 Windows / 7 Tanjung Putih / 8 Cliffs / 9 Otje Garden
/ 10 Mystic Point
To the Southeast of Gorontalo City
11 Tambo’o Fish House / 12 Tjendrawasih Barge Wreck / 13 Japanese Cargo
Wreck / 14 City Limits / 15 Old Port / 16 Mirabela / 17 Swirling Step / 18
Sand Bowl / 19 Kurenai beach / 20 Hole in the Rock / 21 Little Barrier Reef
/ 22 Sunken Island / 23 Alleyways / 24 Sand Castle / 25 Deserted Castle /
26 Cathedral / 27 Shadow land / 28 Honey Comb / 29 Sentinel / 30 Traffic Circle
/ 31 Traffic Jam / 32 Jinn Cave / 33 Silvertips ground / 34 Fallen Rocks /
35 Tanjung Kerbau / 36 Helicopter Bay / 37 Chimneys
Sand Channels (No. 2): From the surface you
can see the white sand channels going down from the reef top. This makes for
an interesting mixture of animals that live on sand and reef creatures. Lots
of pink anthias cover every coral, dart gobies hover over the sand (at one
spot I counted 11 gobies), blennies jump around and on the small sand ledges
you found the shy goby Old Glory (Amblygobius rainfordi). Suddenly Rantje
was trying to get my attention – I turned and there was a eagle ray
right in front of us, slowly cruising by with a samora riding on its back!
A perfect dive!
Tanjung Barat (West Point) (No. 4): A steep
slope covered with hard and soft corals and sponges. The dive guide found
a small Muricella sea fan with two Barbiganti Seahorses close together –
time to take out the macro lens. Just after it was big fish time with a large
napoleon and some makerels and a small tuna flitting by. This is also the
place for the endemic Blue Belly Blenny (Ecsenius caeruliventris), known only
from the Tomini Bay.
Sponge Wall (No. 5): Really amazing wall covered
with lots of gigantic sponges and black corals – that sums it up…!
On the black corals small longnose hawkfishes hide, pufferfishes sleep on
the sponges and groupers lurk between the corals. A very special sight are
the foxtail tunicates - this tunicate normally only forms small roundish balls,
but here they form colonies which hang like long ropes from the roof of the
crannies. Take a closer look and you see the individual tunicates with multiple
zooids radiating a central stem (actually the cloaca…).
Windows (No. 6): A dive site that Rantje from
Miguel’s diving says he is not visiting that much, but that is really
nice. A very craggy wall with lots of bend and corals jutting out, interesting
views up to the surface. Lots of small animals, some nudibranchs, crabs and
shrimps and the extremely shy longfin dottyback (Pseudochromis polynemus)
all along the wall. Definitely good for revisiting!
Tambo’o Fish House
(muck) (No. 11): A sandy slope in front of the village. Ambon scorpionfish,
ghostpipefishes, pipehorse, coconut octopus, sometimes mimic, moreys and eels.
Another muck site is No. 15 Old Port.
Tjendrawasih Barge Wreck (No. 12) and Japanese Cargo Wreck (No. 13):
I haven’t dived these wrecks, but they seem to me to be quiet interesting.
The Tjendrawasih Barge Wreck sank in December 26 1993 and now lies almost
up side down tilting at a 20-degree angle on 26 meters with the crane tower
extending another 16 meters beyond the barge. Rantje told me that the wreck
has attracted a lot of fish life and is well worth visiting. The Japanese
Cargo Wreck lies close by but much deeper in 26 - 45 meters. It is quite large
(50meters) and the bow has broken off and slided down even further. This ship
caught fire and sank in 1942 and now rests upside down.
Mirabela (No. 16): This dive site consists of
long rows of coral ridges and several pinnacles more out in the deep (18 to
25m). This makes for very nice scenery with hard corals mixed with large sponges
with lots of reef fishes and the occasional turtle. This is a good site to
see the Salvador Dali sponge (Petrosia lignosa), a sponge with a very interesting
morphology, very craggy with lots of folds and ridges and also to see the
very large finger sponges.
Sunken Island (No. 22): This again is a totally
different dive site from the others. A submerged gentle slope with sand around
it. Huge field of beautiful staghorn corals and other stony corals and anthias
and damselfishes forming a dense colourful fishsoup. A group of Yellowtail
barracudas hovers over the corals, butterflyfish and angelfishes dart between
and the staghorn coral is packed to capacity with cardinalfishes. At the bottom
there are several lairs of jawfishes and a blue ribbon eel. We found also
a beautiful Ardeadoris egretta in the sand as well as mantis shrimps and two
Fingered dragonets (Dactylopus dactylopus).
Shadow land (No. 27): Rantje planed this dive
so that there was actually quite a lot of light available – no shadows..!
A steep wall with a small cave at 25m depth. This wall sees quite a lot of
waves, so the sponges and corals are smaller and grow closer to the wall than
on other dive sites. There is also an interesting white sponge which covers
some of the corals entirely and looks like somebody splashed white paint on
parts of the reef wall. You follow the wall and look into each cranny, there
are lots of small crabs and shrimps, some longnose hawfish and plenty of gobies
on whipcorals.
Honey Comb (Marine preserve) (No. 28): The area
around Olele Village (Nr 28 to 30) is a marine preserve. The villagers administrate
the preserve themselves. No fishing is allowed and the area is patrolled.
There are 3 glassbottom boats, so visitors can look at the reef life.
Traffic Circle (Marine preserve) (No. 30): This
dive site is full of fish life! Over the gentle slope swim lots of anthias,
fuseliers, damselfishesand redtooth triggerfishes crowed the blue water together
with surgeonfishes and the occasional snapper. If you take a close look you
might see dartgobies, the shy longfin dottyback (Pseudochromis polynemus)
or the Pictus Blenny (Ecsenius pictus).
Jinn Cave (No. 32): This dive site is definitely
a must. You anchor at a cove with steep walls and inlets and you dive down
to a large cavern, bottom about 26m or so. The walls tower over you with only
a small opening at the top and your eyes get accustomed to the dark you see
some nice sea fans and sponges and on the sandy bottom you find the rare filamented
goby (Exyrias sp). You slowly go up at the walls and look out for the Harlekin
grouper (Chephalopholis polleni) and the black and white butterflyfishes (Chaetodon
burgessi). This species of butterflyfish is rarely seen, because it usually
lives down to 80m depth, but here they rise to up around 20m. The dive is
continued along the wall outside, then you double back and explore the cave‘s
upper reaches.
Map of Sulawesi: click on dive sites
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Diving around Manado Diving in Lembeh Strait Siau and Sangihe Diving in Central Sulawesi Diving in Southern Sulawesi Diving in Southeast Sulawesi |
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Dive sites around the Daymaniyat Islands, Kharabah, Fahal in Oman (maps, descriptions) - print version |
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Galapagos islands: center Galapagos, north Galapagos, southeast Galapagos, west Galapagos |
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. Copyright Teresa Zubi (write to
me)